Duration. <\/strong><\/p>\r\nMaybe you only have 10 minutes to shoot a time lapse.<\/p>\r\n
You can just put in 10 minutes (unfortunately it’s only in seconds so you have to dial in 600 seconds.) This is handy.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Capture Button<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
This is when you are ready to record your time lapse. Simply press the red button to begin or end the time lapse.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Camera<\/h3>\r\n
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When you click the camera setting you can use any of the camera’s on your device. Camera’s are always changing but you can take full advantage of whatever technology your camera has. For example mine has bakc dual camera, back camera, front camera, and back telephoto camera.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
I love using the telephoto camera.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Resolution<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
This is where you can change the settings of your resolution. Since I do it for work I love the full resolution and that is what I use.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Preset<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
This will allow you to create a preset. I never do this, but it’s an option available for you.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Schedule<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
This is the app’s setting for a delay on the camera. Meaning it will have a delay from the moment you press the capture button by the number of seconds you choose. I recommend 3-5 seconds so you don’t introduce shake.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
HDR<\/h3>\r\n
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HDR stands for High Dynamic Range and allows users the ability to take 3 photos each time and it automagically blends them into an HDR photo. bracketed exposure and turn it into a time lapse.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Location Enabled<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
A shortcut to turn on or off the device’s location recording settings. Personally, I love having this on in case I want to see where I was later.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
RAW<\/h3>\r\n
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This is a PRO feature that allows your device to take photos in RAW. RAW is an unedited lossless version of the photo that allows you to edit it in other software like Lightroom, After Effects, and LRTimelapse. A must-have for a professional workflow.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Depth<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Another advanced feature that you can use is creating a depth map. If you have something you want in focus and something you don’t want. You’d use this to help your camera create depth. This is more a stop motion tool than a time lapse tool as in time lapse you want everything in focus.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Bracket<\/h3>\r\n
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This is just like HDR except it won’t automatically blend them into another image. This is really advanced and a cool feature if that is a workflow you are familiar with.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Shutter<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Have full control over your camera’s shutter. This is cool but advanced. I think in most situations it might overcomplicate your time lapse.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Focus<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
I recommend treating this like a set it and forget it button.<\/p>\r\n
A common time lapse problem is having continuous autofocus. This is bad because the camera might change its focus between each shot.<\/p>\r\n
Which creates weird pulses that are VERY distracting.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
I recommend just turning this to fixed and never thinking about it again.<\/strong><\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nWhite balance<\/h3>\r\n
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Here you can change your camera’s white balance. Like focus, I recommend changing it to FIXED. This will keep your white balance consistent and not have weird and distracting jumps introducing flicker into the time lapse.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Low Light<\/h3>\r\n
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Here you can enable low light settings on your time lapses, very useful in dark settings but typically overkill.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Stabilization<\/h3>\r\n
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Here you can adjust if your camera has stabilization, this is a handy feature if it’s windy, or if you are going hand-held doing a hyperlapse.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Color Space<\/h3>\r\n
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This allows you to change from the standard color range of sRGB to a newer and more wide array of colors in p3. I don’t recommend this unless you’re going to edit the footage on computers.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n
Image Format<\/h3>\r\n
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Here you get two options. RAW, or JPEG. These are photography terms for the image. JPEG is a compressed pre edited photo that is much smaller in size. RAW is for editing the photos later. Better color control but larger file size.<\/p>\r\n
\r\n\r\n<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/h3>\r\nSave Path<\/h3>\r\n
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Save path refers to where your camera will save the time lapse video when done. Either save them to the Cloud, or your smartphone.<\/p>\r\n
Android users can customize this even further. IOS users it will save to the camera roll.<\/p>\r\n
\r\n\r\n<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/h3>\r\nOnion Skin<\/h3>\r\n\r\n\r\n<\/h3>\r\n<\/h3>\r\n
Onion Skin is a stop motion feature that enables you to see an overlay of your previous image so you can make sure your stop motion is looking good.<\/p>\r\n
\r\n\r\n<\/h3>\r\nGrid<\/h3>\r\n
<\/p>\r\n
Helpful for lining up your photos and making sure the framing is right.<\/p>\r\n
EXPORTING USING Lapse IT<\/h2>\r\n
There are two ways to export using Lapse it. You can simply export a finished time lapse video, or a folder with all the raw photos to edit on your computer.<\/p>\r\n
The simplest way is all done on your phone. Once done with your time lapse navigate to your project.<\/p>\r\n
Then click export. Here you will get a pop-up asking where you want to save it, I recommend saving to photos. If you want to edit in CapCut or another program before sharing.<\/p>\r\n
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The advanced way will export all the raw photos individually so you can edit in programs like LRTimelapse or After Effects.<\/p>\r\n
To access this again go to the project you want to export and then when you have it selected select the settings icon feature in the image below.<\/p>\r\n
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That will load up a project preferences panel and I like to have it as follows.<\/p>\r\n
Output same as the first. This way it will always be the highest quality resolution. I recommend a 30 output frame rate, quality at extreme, and output format as MOV. These are the optimal settings available.<\/p>\r\n
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Once that is done x out and navigate to where the FRAMES calotog is. Blue button in the middle.<\/p>\r\n
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Follow the instructions asking you to tap that and then the select all button, confirm, and export as zip.<\/p>\r\n
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From here you can airdrop them to your computer for further editing, or transfer them to the cloud and download them.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n
Related – Learn how to edit a time lapse using LRTimelapse here.<\/p>\r\n
FINAL THOUGHTS<\/h2>\r\n
While I believe this is the absolute best time lapse app for Android or IOS because it has so many features. Its user interface is its only drawback. A lot of buttons and features are unnecessary and not clear creating a learning curve.<\/p>\r\n
But it is really simple and easy to use when you get the hang of it. And does allow for some advanced features that cover for its clunkiness.<\/p>\r\n
CONCLUSION<\/h2>\r\n
This app is for those looking happy with a free-to-use time lapse app. Those who don’t need all the bells and whistles.<\/p>\r\n
The $2.99 version is great for those seeking professional quality time lapses on the fly without needing a DSLR.<\/p>\r\n
WATCH HOW TO USE LAPSE IT HERE<\/h2>\r\n